A Visit to Nandiland

How does it feel like to study in Moi University? To study with the Kipyengons, Kipyators and Kipsangs of this world. Oh my! Those names. Those names are like the sound made when one is clearing their throat. Or when one is sneezing. Deeply. After a grain of rice goes down the wind pipe. Instead of going through the food pipe. 

An artistic friend of mine studies there. I think he is doing a course in agronomy. Or is it animal husbandry; the one you take care of animals without acting as their husband. His name is John. John Kahihia. Kahihia, in Kikuyu means someone who burns things. And yes, he burns. He burns poems. With a lot of artistry and dexterity. He also has a thing for prose. Easy, humorous prose. Prose that drives you to stitches when you think about how creative the dude is.

And now ladies and gentlemen, put your hands together for chef Kahihia. Kahihia, burn them with your recipe. Your recipe of art. 

Kahihia(the one left) with Kipyengono at Moi university

 

I know you have heard some myths about Nandiland, haven’t you?

I remember the stories my grandma used to tell when I was still a young boy about Nandi land. Nandi land seemed strange to me. Yes, strange. I had always thought that all Nandis are hostile and that Nandi land was the last place I ever wanted to visit. Those guys eat men! Those guys will take you a prisoner! So I always said the idea of visiting Nandi land was very unsexy and lacked romance in it. I respected a few who visited Nandi land and came back home; they were my inspiration in life. When I grow up, I want to be like so and so, he is very brave. But now that am a grown up (rounded off to the nearest state), I know the real Nandi.

Nandi land is however different from all the stories I had heard. In fact, it does not merit quarter of the stories. The stories had created a different picture of this beautiful land. This land that a guy from central Kenya would say is still virgin. A ‘Mzungu’ would say they discovered the land. Whereas a Coasterian would say this land is inhabitable; or how do they expect me to climb all the hills?

Having lived in Eldoret town for two years, I had known the real identity of the Nandi and I was set to see the beautiful land. So one Friday I left Eldoret town for Nandi land. I was to visit a friend who lived in the interior of the land. He is a typical Nandi who had known the romance and the bliss of books but still prided on the utterly beautiful land. I once asked him what he likes about the place and his answer was simple ‘just wait and see’. I swallowed my inquisitive character. I had to wait.

A few minutes’ drive out of Eldoret town and you start experiencing Nandi land. Peeping through the window, the land seemed to shy from my presence. Like a man confessing their inability to perform in bed. Maybe the land thought I was from Nairobi town and among the few who laugh at every minute thing they saw. Perhaps my borrowed sunglasses gave the land a wrong impression. I called my friend to ascertain the town I was to alight. Did you say Sheria? Nay! I said Selia. Pardon my lallation buddy.

You will like the town centers that you see on your way to Selia. You see, we are used to seeing towns that are well constructed. Stone buildings that are firm and in some cases, iron sheets have been used for kiosks. That is not the trend here. Town center buildings are made of mud. Did I say mud? Yes, a mixture of soil and water. I at first wanted to laugh but wait. People here are experts in the art (but some say it’s a science). They do it to an extent that a ‘not so keen’ observer will think the buildings are sand plastered. Yes, they are that good. The buildings however look gorgeous. The floor of the buildings is made of mud mixed with some cow dung. And, it looks so smooth. In fact you almost ask whether you should leave the shoes by the door. But then you remember the hot sun favors the growth of fungi. I later learnt individual homes are also built as the towns’ buildings. If you are used to seeing a town every after a kilometer, welcome to Nandi land; towns are 700GB’s away from each other. Okay, I know your hard disk is not that much, right?

The roads are rough here. And the journey was tiresome and unending. My car and my driver were not there by then; they were (and still are) in my dreams. One thing I liked about the matatus here is the fact that they never overload. You see, in Kiambu am used to sit on a bag of mangoes while a carton of apple rests on my head. Not to forget the goat on my left and the two children on my laps. And you dare not complain. The journey was thus blissful and despite the hot sun, I enjoyed the cold wind that slapped me from all corners. Unlike in my place where you will find no idle land, Nandi land is awash of idle land. Huge tracks of land unutilized. Vestal land. In fact, I salivated to the fact. You will find a two acre land with only one house in the middle and a kraal. I was worried of the security status of the area as homesteads are so far apart.

I alighted in Selia. Perhaps the biggest town center in the region. Buildings as usual but the town was a beehive of activity. I have lived with Nandis but they never speak the language fluently you know. Well, I am in their land now and everybody is on the ‘Chamgee’ language. I did not mind that they may be speaking ill of me. Nay! This people are hospitable and cannot even find time to speak ill about anyone. My concern was their tongues; I had not seen a health center around and I speculated someone was about to bite their tongue badly. They just speak so fast.In fact Safaricom should consider speaking speed while they charge us to make calls. Before I tell my friend I have alighted in Selia, the guy has read his friend the latest tribe rules on phone. Bob Collymore please do something.

When you think that you have arrived, you will find that you are just getting started. Are you there Kahihia? Yes. Take a motorbike and tell them to drop you at Salgaa. Salgaa is in Molo or is it like the Kisumu in Eldoret? Yep! I alighted in Salgaa and thought am there already. I could not only see but also feel Nandi land. People in the area are very hospitable and you will receive help even before you say you need it. Now I had to walk. You will know that you are in the interior of Nandi land when your friend says the home is ‘just there, in fact we are almost there’. Ok, if you are from Nairobi, ‘just there’ is the next county; Rongai. You have to be good in trekking. Bikes cannot make it there and neither can donkeys. I was just about to give up when we arrived. ‘And how often do you go to Selia town?’ I asked. ‘At least daily, but I prefer walking’. Okay! You know what you say when you do not want to show your astonishment.

Nandi land is beautiful. Breathe taking. Small rivers joining the big rivers. Green fields that lookphotoshopped. Hills that give you a clear view of the whole extension of Nandi land. Now and then, herds of cattle will pass by with a whistling half naked boy behind them. Temperatures can go high there and thus ‘my’ sunglasses served a great purpose. Just like any other area, there are those ‘well to do’ families and thus you will note some homes with a difference. Homes of the wealthy here are made of blocks; the red loam soil blocks. You will like the beauty of the houses, I dare you.

Nandi girls. Nandi girls are beautiful. Okay, that was an understatement. They are beautiful more than the word beautiful. Methinks they are the best. Ever heard of a beauty that is felt and not seen? Well, if you have, then you must have seen a Nandi girl. The girls look intact; never discovered. And, were it not for the phrase ‘Natural Beauty’ being in common use, I would have said they are naturally beautifully. But let me not bring them that low. Of course Nairobi girls are also called natural beauties, aren’t they? With my campus stupidity, where you hug just anyone, I said I must have a Nandi girl. He is not a man without guts. Or balls. Or both. So I approached Jep. She had that figure that would woo the passing cows and goats. In fact, I saw a few turn their heads to get a look. Do you know that cows can also ogle? This is not campusKahihia, you never approach a girl just like that; girls have dignity here. So do I have to go back to staying at the fence for hours? Unfortunately yes. I could only ogle. And that too had limits.

Will you take a bathe Kahihia? Of course I will take a bath. I did not know the difference, not until we headed to the ‘bathroom’. Nandi land can be comical. People here bathe in rivers and are not used to bathrooms or basins like we do. The irony is that children, women as well as men all bathe in the same area. Not being used to this, I took the passport size bathe. You remember doing it?

I had planned to stay one day but I had to extend the stay. I had to attend an initiation ceremony. Dancing all night.Dancing after dancing. The boys left. I never saw them again. Circumcision here is esteemed. He is not a man who is not circumcised. Boys will leave to the forest and only return when they are well healed. They will then meet the girls who are circumcised (lemme not say mutilated) the same year for an ‘orientation’. Do not ask me what happens while they are in the forest. That is a secret to them.

After staying there for two days, I had to travel back to Eldoret. I slept the whole way.
Read more entertaining articles from John on his blog http://honeydippedlines.wordpress.com/